THE COAT ROUTE

A globe-crossing adventure that traces the provenance of a luxury vicuna overcoat—and brings to life the offbeat and obsessed cast of master craftsmen who stand in the way of globalization and mass consumption.

In today's world of mass-produced “fast fashion,” is there a place for a hand-crafted $50,000 coat? To answer that question, journalist Meg Lukens Noonan unravels the story of the coat in question—taking the reader on a journey to the remote mountains of Peru, where villagers shear vicunas (a rare animal known for having the softest fleece) for the coat's yarn; to the fabulous Florence estate of Stefano Ricci, the world's greatest silk designer; to the esteemed French textile company Dormeuil; to the workshop of the master hand engraver who makes the 18k gold plaque that hangs inside the coat's collar; and to the studio of John Cutler, a fourth-generation bespoke tailor who works his magic with scissors and thread. Throughout, Noonan delves into the rich history of bespoke tailoring, which began in 17th-century London, and the various often-overlooked industries that support it, like the button industry, which revolutionized fashion when it emerged in the 13th century. Peppered with fascinating and surprising facts, THE COAT ROUTE is a witty and engaging book about a Slow Coat, a timely love song about the place in a disposable culture for things of lasting value. It presents a rich tapestry of local masters, individual artisans, and family-owned companies that have refused to become anachronisms in a creativity-deadening market: instead, they have found increasing reason to believe that their way is the best way—best for their customers, best for the environment, and best for the quality of life of all involved. This book will be a launching pad for a discussion of sustainability vs. disposability; mass vs. artisanal production; local production vs. globalization in fashion. Meg Lukens Noonan is a veteran journalist who worked for Outside Magazine for ten years and has contributed to The New York Times, Vogue, Esquire, Travel & Leisure and other publications. She is the co-author of ALBATROSS: The True Story of a Woman’s Survival at Sea, which was translated into more than a dozen languages.