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THE MEMORY OF TASTE

Soleil Ho Tu David Phu

Vietnamese American Recipes from Phú Quoc, Oakland, and the Spaces Between

A playful collection of over 85 Vietnamese and Viet American dishes and immersive travel photography from Top Chef alum Tu David Phu that blends the Oakland native's modern culinary style with the food wisdom from his refugee family.
Tu David Phu trained in the nation's top restaurants only to realize the culinary lessons that truly impacted him were those passed on by his parents, refugees from Phú Quôc. In his hometown of Oakland, California, his parents taught him hard-won lessons in frugality, food-covery cooking, and practical gill-to-fin eating. Centered around Tu's childhood memories in the diverse Bay Area and family stories of life on Phú Qu?c island, The Memory of Taste explores the Phu family's ability to thrive and adapt from one coastal community to another. With tried-and-true tips like how to butcher a fish, tastebud-tingling flavor combinations, and stunning photographs, Tu guides both novice and experienced chefs alike in his take on Viet cooking, including: - Staples in every Vietnamese kitchen like Com Tam (Broken Rice), Dán Sa (Lemongrass Paste), and Nupoc Mam Cham (Everyday Fish Sauce) - Seafood dishes that utilize the less "desired" parts like Huyet Cá Tái Chanh (Tuna Bloodline Tartare), Canh Chua Dau Cá Hoi (Hot Pot-style Salmon Head Sour Soup), and Xupong Cá Hoi Ghiên Giòn (Fried Fish Frames) - Fine-dining dishes from Tu's pop-up days like Goi Cuon Cá Cornets, Mì Xào Toi Nam Cuc (Truffled Garlic Noodles), and Bánh Canh Carbonara - Adapted recipes from new traditions like Bánh Ít Tran (Sticky Rice Dumplings), Com Cua Hap (Dungeness Crab Donburi), and Pho Vit Nupong (Roasted Duck Pho) The Memory of Taste is Tu's story of returning to his roots and finding long-hidden culinary treasure. In his debut cookbook, Tu offers readers a chance to enjoy the bounty of his parents' lessons, just as he has. Tu David Phu is a Vietnamese American, San Francisco Chronicle Rising Star Chef, Top Chef alumnus, author, and Emmy-nominated filmmaker from Oakland. He has cooked across various cultures, from the American culinary treasures to classical European traditions. But it is what he calls "the memory of taste" that pulled him back to his roots: the practices, ingredients, techniques, and flavors of Vietnamese cuisines, and he is passionate about sharing the riches and lessons of his birthright through food. Soleil Ho is a Vietnamese American writer, podcaster, and burnt-out chef. They served as the San Francisco Chronicle's restaurant critic for four years, and their food and culture writing has also appeared in the New Yorker, Bitch Media, GQ, and The Best American Food Writing. They've also won the James Beard Foundation's Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award.
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Published 2024-09-10 by 4 Color Books

Comments

The Memory of Taste resonated with me deeply as a refugee child with parents who had to flee a war-torn country. Tu's candid storytelling took me on a journey of profound emotions filled with delightful recipes. Most importantly, it shows how cooking and food can help us connect more deeply with our family's history and identity.

Chef Tu's The Memory of Taste beautifully intertwines culture, cuisine, and personal revelation, offering an enlightening and heartwarming exploration of heritage through food. The engaging narratives and unique recipes provide a fresh perspective on cultural representation. The portrayal of fish sauce embodies the soul of Chef Tu's story and Vietnamese cuisine, making this book a must-read for anyone seeking a deeper connection to food and heritage.

Many kinds of Vietnamese cuisine exist, and this vibrant and very memorable version from Tu David Phu and Soleil Ho emerges from the ways Vietnamese people have loved and lived through colonialism, war, poverty, and the refugee experience. The recipes and stories - funny and real, profane and tender - vividly illustrate how family and food were so crucial in helping the Vietnamese not only survive their history but thrive. Stripped of Oriental exoticism, this is a cookbook infused with the intense flavors of refugee kitchens and the inauthentic authenticity of the diaspora.

Tu confidently walks the line of his Vietnamese American heritage in his food and the impact of his memories and stories play out in his recipes. The Memory of Taste is a great book for readers who want to learn about the context of traditional Vietnamese food through Californian influences that makes Tu's food unique, but can also help make sense of your own cherished food memories.

Bold and unapologetic in its words and flavors, The Memory of Taste is a testament to how powerful diasporic stories are in the language of food. In an intimately familiar story, Tu reminds me that those of us who have survived the generational trauma of war and forced migration, are blessed to honor the past and pave a more beautiful way forward with delicious nourishing meals that connect us all to our shared humanity.